Kundan jewellery is a traditional Indian craft built by setting uncut, foiled glass or stones into gold coated metal using a technique that predates modern faceted-cut jewellery. If you have ever wondered what is kundan jewellery, the short answer is this: it is not about the stone at all. It is about the setting. A skilled artisan places raw stones into a mould, backs them with reflective foil, and seals them in place by hand. The result is a necklace or earring that catches light in flat, glowing panels rather than sharp sparkle points, which is why kundan has stayed at the centre of Indian bridal and festive wear for centuries.
The History of Kundan Jewellery in India
Kundan traces back to the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where goldsmiths developed the technique of pure gold foil setting for temple offerings and royal ornaments. Over generations, the craft spread across Bharat and became a fixture of wedding jewellery for brides from every region, not just Rajasthan. Sanskrit texts on ornamentation describe similar foil-set techniques used in temple deity adornment, which is part of why kundan carries a sacred, ceremonial weight even today. What began as a royal craft became, over time, the standard for Indian bridal jewellery, worn at weddings, Navratri, Diwali, and other major family occasions.
How Kundan Jewellery is Made
Making a kundan piece involves several distinct stages, each handled by a different craftsperson in traditional workshops.
- Ghaat: A goldsmith shapes the base metal into the design frame, creating small recessed pockets for each stone.
- Paadi: Thin gold foil is placed at the back of each pocket to create reflection and depth.
- Kundan setting: The stone, usually glass or a synthetic stone cut to resemble a natural gem, is pressed into the pocket by hand.
- Meenakari: Many kundan pieces are finished with enamel work on the reverse side, adding colour that shows when the necklace moves.
Because every stage is done by hand, no two kundan pieces are ever fully identical, even within the same design.
Types of Kundan Settings
Kundan jewellery today is grouped loosely by finish and weight. Bridal kundan sets are heavier, layered, and often paired with matching maang tikka and jhumkas for weddings. Lightweight kundan, sometimes called daily wear kundan, uses smaller stone settings and a lighter base metal, making it practical for office wear and everyday styling. Rajwadi kundan leans into the original Rajasthani court style, with more intricate stone clusters and antique gold finishing, while modern kundan sets simplify the silhouette for a cleaner, contemporary look.
Kundan vs Polki vs Meenakari
These three terms are often confused because they frequently appear together on the same piece. Kundan refers to the stone-setting technique itself. Polki is a specific type of uncut diamond traditionally used within kundan settings, so polki jewellery is technically a category of kundan work using a particular stone. Meenakari is the enamel work applied to the back or sides of a piece, and is a finishing technique rather than a stone or setting method. A single necklace can combine all three: kundan setting, polki stones, and meenakari detailing on the reverse. For a deeper comparison, see our guide on Kundan vs Polki jewellery.
How to Wear Kundan Jewellery
Kundan pairs naturally with silk sarees, Banarasi weaves, and heavy lehengas because the flat, foiled stones complement zari and gota work rather than competing with it. For daily wear, a lightweight kundan choker or pendant set works well over a plain kurta or western wear, adding a traditional touch without feeling formal. For weddings and festive occasions such as Navratri or Diwali, a fuller kundan set with matching earrings and a maang tikka completes the look. Gold and maroon outfits bring out the warmth of antique gold kundan, while ivory and pastel lehengas let the stone work stand out on its own.
Browse our Kundan Necklace Sets for bridal and festive pieces, or explore Daily Wear Necklace Sets for lighter kundan designed for everyday styling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is kundan jewellery real gold?
Most kundan jewellery sold today uses a base metal, typically brass or a zinc alloy, that is gold plated or given an antique gold polish rather than solid gold. This keeps the pieces affordable and lightweight enough for regular festive wear, while still achieving the rich, warm look associated with traditional kundan. The stones themselves are usually glass or synthetic stones set with reflective foil rather than natural gems, which is what gives kundan its glow without the cost of precious stones. High-end kundan bridal sets made with real gold and polki diamonds do exist, but they are a separate, much more expensive category typically made to order by traditional jewellers. For everyday and festive fashion jewellery, gold-plated or antique gold finish kundan is the standard, and it is what most Indian brides and shoppers buy for weddings, Navratri, and other celebrations because it delivers the traditional look without the weight of real gold.
Can kundan jewellery be worn daily?
Yes, lightweight kundan sets are specifically designed for daily and office wear, using smaller stone settings and thinner metal bases than bridal kundan. These pieces are meant to sit comfortably under a kurta or shirt collar for a full workday without feeling heavy, unlike layered bridal kundan sets meant for a few hours at a wedding. Daily wear kundan usually comes as a simple pendant, a small choker, or stud and drop earrings rather than a full layered set with maang tikka and multiple strands. Colours also tend to be more neutral, such as white, mint, or soft pink, so the piece pairs easily with both ethnic and western outfits. If you want kundan as part of your everyday styling rather than only for festive occasions, look specifically for pieces labelled daily wear or office wear kundan rather than bridal kundan sets, which are built for a different kind of use entirely.
How long does kundan jewellery last?
With proper care, kundan jewellery can last for many years, since the foil setting and gold polish are fairly durable when kept away from moisture and friction. The biggest risk to kundan pieces is exposure to water, perfume, and sweat, which can dull the gold polish and loosen the foil backing behind the stones over time. Storing each piece separately in a zip-lock pouch or soft cloth, rather than letting pieces rub against each other in a jewellery box, prevents scratching and keeps the antique gold finish intact for longer. It also helps to put on kundan jewellery last, after applying perfume and getting dressed, and to remove it first before washing your hands or face. With this kind of basic care, a well-made kundan set can stay wearable for years of weddings, festivals, and family functions without losing its shine or structure.
What is the difference between kundan and antique jewellery?
Kundan refers specifically to the technique of setting foiled stones into a metal base, while antique jewellery refers to a finish, an oxidised or dulled gold look achieved through a specific polishing process. A piece can technically be both kundan and antique if it uses kundan stone setting along with an antique gold finish rather than a bright, polished gold look. In practice, most Indian jewellery brands use antique finish on Kundan, Rajwadi, and South Indian temple designs alike, so the antique look is not unique to any single craft tradition. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the stones versus the metal. If the piece has flat-set foiled stones, that is kundan work. If the focus is on a dulled, textured gold surface with fewer or no stones, that is closer to pure antique jewellery. Many festive pieces combine both, using kundan stone work on an antique gold base for a fuller traditional look.